For years the Navy has maintained radio stations at Dutch Harbor in the Aleutian Islands and at St. Paul in the Pribilof Islands, and many radiomen and their families have spent a year or two at these places thus becoming sourdoughs.” This term, in Alaska, applies to those who have seen the ice come and the ice go, that is, have spent a year here. But, in general, the naval service is little acquainted with what to expect in the Islands, as was amply illustrated when preparations were being made to equip a group of men to man 3 Navy weather stations in that area during 1933-34.
The purpose of this article is to give some insight into the general weather, living conditions, and recreational facilities that will be of value to other Navy families that may, in the future, have occasion to consider going there. Of course, one year in these Islands is probably not sufficient to qualify as an “expert,” but it is believed that the information contained therein will make it easier for the next man ordered there.
The remarks will refer specifically to Dutch Harbor and the adjacent village of Unalaska but, in general, will fit almost any village in southwestern Alaska or the Aleutian Islands.
General
The island of Unalaska is the largest and one of the easternmost of the Aleutian group. It lies about 2,000 miles west of and about 300 miles north of Seattle, so that it is not as far north as most people imagine. In Unalaska Bay, on the north side of the Island, is the village of Iliuliuk, commonly known as Unalaska, the most populous town in the Aleutians. In fact, it is often referred to in that region as the “Metropolis of the Aleutians.” Here one will find about 150 natives, or Aleuts, and probably from 20 to 30 white people during the winter months. In summer, the village population is considerably increased by transients, for it is the stopping place for travelers to and from Nome, the Bristol Bay area, and the western Aleutians. In addition, the Coast Guard maintains the headquarters here for the Bering Sea Patrol from May 1 until November 1 when Coast Guard cutters patrol the Aleutians and Bering Sea as far north as Point Barrow; and the Coast and Geodetic Survey uses it as a base to carry on survey operations in the Aleutian chain of islands. During the months of June and July, a growing herring fishing industry gives employment to a considerable number of fishermen.
In Unalaska, one will find a deputy U. S. commissioner, a deputy U. S. marshal, a U. S. postmaster, a doctor, and a priest of the Greek Orthodox church to which practically all native Aleuts belong. In addition, the Alaska Commercial Company, which formerly controlled a vast organization throughout Alaska during the “gold-rush” days, maintains its last foothold in this region here at Unalaska with a resident agent in charge. Two or three stores, one or two cafes, a Greek Orthodox church, a Bureau of Indian Affairs Hospital, a Territorial School, and various buildings maintained and occupied by the Coast Guard comprise the business district of the town. During the summer, the monthly trip of the steamship Victoria, plying between Seattle and
Nome and making a stop-over at the village, gives a 5-7 day service to Seattle, while Coast Guard vessels, the SS. Starr from Seward, Alaska, and a few itinerant vessels provide additional service. After the departure of Coast Guard vessels, about November 1, the mail and freight service degenerates into approximately a monthly trip of the SS .Starr which has the government contract to carry mail from Seward, Alaska, some 800 miles to the eastward, to all villages along the Alaska peninsula and as far westward as the island of Urnnak—100 miles west of Unalaska. This steamer makes connections with the steamship line that maintains a regular schedule between Seattle and Seward.
Dutch Harbor, which is much more widely known in the Navy, originally was a small village, located on the island of Amaknak, which lies in Unalaska Bay. The original settlement was established by the North American Commercial Company which held a lease on the Seal or Pribilof Islands for a period of years and which used Dutch Harbor as a base of operations because the arctic ice pack reaches the Pribilofs in winter and closes navigation to those islands for three or four months. This village grew to considerable size during the Nome gold rush in 1902. Most of the old buildings, consisting of a Company House, a hotel, a dance hall, a bunkhouse, and numerous small houses, still remain, somewhat the worse for wear, reminding one of a western “ghost town.” There are two methods of transportation from this place to the main village of Unalaska: one by boat across the harbor, a distance of about one mile; the other over the trail around the island, a distance of about one mile, and then across a 200-yard stretch of channel by boat.
The U. S. Navy Radio Station is also situated on the island of Amaknak about a half mile from the Dutch Harbor dock toward the main village of Unalaska. Here there is a large brick 6-family apartment house and two or three frame buildings which are used as a radio office and powerhouse. The buildings here have oil heat and electric power and, except for coal stoves for cooking, are modern in every way and comparable to any apartment house in the States. In fact they are so far superior to anything in the Aleutians, or, for that matter, in most of Alaska, that they could be classed as “palatial’ according to the standards that prevail there. Even so, it must be admitted that during some of the worst gales numerous composition shingles are usually blown off the roof, and the rooms and cellar are many times flooded when the wind drives the rain through improperly designed window frames.
The population living on the island of Amaknak, including those at the Radio Station and at Dutch Harbor proper, as a rule averages between 25 and 30 white people, including children. No natives live on this island except during the summer when herring are being packed.
Weather and Climate
As weather plays such an important role in all activities in the Aleutians, a little description will not be amiss. The Islands are well removed from continental influences and, surrounded by water, they enjoy a typical maritime climate. As a result, a large percentage of the days are cloudy, clear days being the exception, but at Dutch Harbor the sun does appear for varying periods at least three-fourths of the total days in a year. Temperatures are moderate and have never been known to go below 5°F. nor above 80°F. (such temperatures actually are the exception and in a normal year vary between 10° and 70°F.), while the humidity ranges between 70 and 100 per cent the year around. Rain and snow are quite common, averaging about 63 inches per year and fall on approximately 180 days of the year.
Snow may fall from October until May but seldom is there a snow cover at sea level for more than 2 months during the winter. Thus, to Alaskans living in the Yukon Valley where the thermometer goes as low as — 60°F., the coastal and island regions of Alaska are often referred to as the “Banana Belt.”
The Country
All of the islands are of volcanic origin and most of the larger islands have dormant volcanoes on them, some of which periodically become active. The mountains rise abruptly from the water and little level land can be found except near river mouths and at the heads of the numerous bays. All the villages have been built at or near sea level where they can be easily reached by water. Few sandy beaches are found and usually beaches are steep and composed of bowlders. Lakes and marshes are scattered everywhere, for practically every slight depression collects its share of drainage.
No trees are native to the Islands; in feet, from Kodiak Island which lies 600 miles eastward to Attu Island some 800 miles to the westward, a tree is something to talk about. The two exceptions are in Unalaska Bay where one small grove consisting of about a dozen gnarled and stunted Norway pines, each planted in memory of a Russian priest, gives Dutch Harbor the distinction of having a “forest,” while a considerable number of younger pines are growing in another forest” on Expedition Island which also ties in the bay. Willow trees grow to the great height of 2 feet and numerous alder dumps are scattered over the island of Amaknak, reaching as high as 6 feet.
In summer, all the Islands are carpeted m green with a lush growth of native grasses, 5 or 6 feet tall in places, while wild flowers are very profuse. The ordinary variety of buttercup grows to a height of 3-4 feet. During the summer of 1933, some workmen at the Radio Station brought in and planted California poppies and these grew 3 feet tall, blooming until October 30, when frost killed the plants. Of course, the flowers never opened completely, as they do in California, on account of the lack of continuous sunshine, but when picked and taken indoors they would open and remain fresh for as long as a week.
Living Conditions
Homes.—Few houses are available, either in Unalaska or Dutch Harbor. Some attempt is being made by the Alaska Commercial Company to recondition or build two or three cottages in Dutch Harbor, and the second floor of the old Company House at that place has been reconditioned and made into a flat. In Unalaska there are two or three homes that might be rented. The Alaska Commercial Company House in Unalaska has spare rooms for occasional visitors, and room and board could be obtained here for short periods. Before venturing into the Islands, the Alaska Commercial Company, with offices in San Francisco, should be contacted and suitable living arrangements could probably be made.
Food.—The food question looms large in Alaskan life and requires careful planning. In general, it is possible to live by depending on the stores at present in Unalaska but it is much safer and cheaper to carry in provisions from Seattle. Adequate arrangements should be made with wholesale grocers in the States so that replacements on certain items may be made as needed, always bearing in mind that three weeks must be allowed for transportation in winter even with perfect steamer connections. Freight also is of importance, being $32 per weight or measured ton (whichever is higher) with an additional 50 per cent added for perishable foods.
The main diet consists of canned foods. On account of the weight, navy personnel should attempt to have a year’s supply brought north in a navy ship during the summer. It is astonishing how many cans a normal family will use—-3 tons per year is probably an average figure. The planning and ordering necessitates quite a study of grocer’s catalogues and usually consultation with a grocer’s salesman who is familiar with Alaskan needs. Today there is a great variety in canned vegetables, etc., which is little known to those who normally have access to fresh foods in the markets, and one should remember that variety means a great deal when one is separated from the corner grocery store and vegetable market.
Meat was a big problem a few years ago in Dutch Harbor but now an up-to- date cold storage and chill room is available at the Radio Station for the use of naval personnel. This should permit one to buy frozen beef, lamb, etc., either from navy vessels during the summer or have it transported via refrigerator ships, and to store it at the Radio Station for the winter months. The Alaska Commercial Company store has meat available during most of the year—usually at 50 cents per pound with little choice of cuts because of the lack of a butcher—but it was our experience that by January this meat had taken up so many extraneous odors that it tasted little like beef or lamb. Hormel varieties of canned meats and chickens are excellent but, with the exception of corned beef, other forms of beef in cans, such as meat balls, baby beef steaks, and so on, taste little like beef. In our case, without cold storage, an occasional quarter of beef was purchased during the summer and autumn from ships and, even with no experience as a butcher, a creditable job of butchering was done. One finds that one is not too fastidious about cuts after having had no fresh beef for a month or two.
Fresh eggs are practically nonexistent in the Islands for no one bothers to raise chickens. Fresh eggs of questionable character usually can be obtained at the stores but it is advisable to take “waxed” eggs in and replace them by ordering from the States. They are usually ordered by the case and a case will last about 3 months with 3 in the family. For the first week or so after receipt, waxed eggs may be poached; then for a month or so, they can be fried, sunny side up; but by the third month they usually are suitable only for cooking and for scrambling, if one is at all fastidious as to taste.
Some fresh vegetables are available at the stores in Unalaska during the summer months but during the winter most people eat out of cans. It is possible to order such vegetables as lettuce, celery, and artichokes in Seattle and have them reach the Islands in good condition, even though they have been 3 weeks on the way and may possibly freeze coming westward from Seward on the SS. Starr, as this vessel has no cold storage facilities. Vegetables either purchased at the store or imported are nearly worth their weight in gold; for example, a head of lettuce sells for 251 at the store and approximately 20 fi when one imports it directly from Seattle. But, even though costly, such fresh vegetables give a welcome respite in the canned food diet and usually will remain edible for 2 or 3 weeks after receipt if handled with care. Root vegetables, such as carrots, beets, potatoes, and turnips present little problem and can be kept safely for long periods. Fruits, such as apples, lemons, and oranges, will last for long periods and are purchased by the case, either from the store or in Seattle.
It is possible to purchase bread and a certain amount of pastry at one or two places in Unalaska but, in view of the uncertainty of boating, all families at Dutch Harbor import the basic materials and bake them. Fresh yeast is carried by the Company store in Unalaska in pound lots, having been brought in during the summer and placed in cold storage. By punter, the yeast loses considerable of its strength and, to obtain the same results as when fresh, one finds that more and more yeast is required in bread taking. Dry yeast may be used but it requires considerably more time and labor to prepare a batch of dough.
Heating and Cooking
With the exception of the Radio Station and the Company House in Unalaska where furnaces are installed, heating and cooking are usually done with coal. A few homes in Unalaska have rigged up oil attachments on their present heaters but the use is far from general. Some heat is required the year around so that the resultant coal bill is a large item. Coal is available in the town of Unalaska at $25 Per ton and an average of 2 tons per month for 3 stoves is required. If navy transportation is available, coal should be purchased in Seattle at approximately $10 per ton, bagged for shipment and handling, and brought in with other gear.
If oil is used for heating, it may be obtained from the Alaska Commercial Company at practically the same price one pays in the States.
Proper Clothing
All clothes should be purchased in the States before sailing. It has been found that a wide divergence of opinion exists as to the proper clothing required and the statements contained herein should he viewed as one family’s ideas. Because of the windiness and dampness the wardrobe should consist of plenty of warm Woolens which are generally worn the year around. Woolen underwear is not a necessity unless one plans to spend considerable time outside, but for winter sports, etc., it makes one more comfortable. Outer garments that will positively keep one dry are a necessity—the newfangled wind and waterproof garments which are popular today have been found to be a snare and a delusion—and practically everyone ends up with a pair of hip boots, a set of oilskins, and a sou’wester, as this is the only outfit that will keep a person dry in an Aleutian gale, where the rain normally comes down horizontally. Leather or woolen jackets, sheepskin coats, woolen trousers or knickers, and overshoes make up the usual outfit for both women and children when it is not pouring rain. High leather shoes or “shoe-packs,” which are water-tight, may be used but are not a necessity. Warm woolen gloves or mittens and caps or berets complete the outfit (hats are of no value for they will soon blow away).
Of course, for dress-up occasions, uniforms or regular civilian clothes can be worn but are certainly not adequate for the usual weather, unless supplemented by the items already listed.
Recreation
The usual question asked of people returning from the Islands is “What did you do with your time?” Of course, a considerable portion of the day is spent at work, and on many days the weather was so boisterous that one only stirred out of the house to refill the coal scuttles and attend to other necessary chores; actually plenty of work is a blessing as it keeps up the morale. It is necessary to plan for some recreation in advance and this is especially true if any large number of men are ever required to stay in that area for long periods of time. There are plenty of days when the weather permits outside exercise and usually there is at least one “perfect” day each week with clear sky and little wind. On such days everyone gets outside and tries to remain there all day. It was found that these good days obeyed no rules, like Sundays, so as a rule, the normal work was carried on week days and Sundays and when the good day appeared it was declared a holiday and all hands sallied forth.
Movies.—During the summer months Coast Guard vessels based at Unalaska hold nightly movies and one finds a cordial welcome extended by the Coast Guard. During the winter, even though a small moving picture house was in operation in Unalaska, the lack of sufficient patronage and the length of time between mails usually resulted in old movies that had outlived most of their usefulness. Thus, movies were just not included on the amusement calendar.
Radio.—The chief entertainment in the evenings was furnished by the radios. It is necessary to purchase a good “battery” radio set for use in the Islands and, as a rule, most homes are equipped with a Sears Roebuck set. No alternating current is available and although most homes have their own source of direct current, most AC and DC radio sets have been found to be too much influenced by man-made static from such sources for efficient operation. From May to September, chiefly on account of the length of daylight, reception is none too good and, except for the “Voice of the Golden North” at Anchorage, Alaska, few broadcasting stations can be heard. From September through the winter months, reception becomes excellent and one can select a program from almost any high-powered broadcasting station between the east and west coasts of the United States and Canada. Because of the difference in time (3 hours between Seattle and Dutch Harbor) one may thus hear all programs of importance in the United States and then, when he goes to bed, tune in and hear the gossip of Alaska from the Anchorage station. And, if one wishes, the next morning’s programs from Japan and Siberia are available later in the evening.
Books, magazines, games, etc.—For the long winter evenings, books and magazines are a necessity and arrangements should be made to take a supply of books and to subscribe to magazines. Newspapers were found to be far from necessary, because of the numerous news broadcasts by radio, except as a supply of paper and in order to keep up with the current “comics.” Jig saws and games are of interest to children while card games for grown-ups tend to break the monotony if a quorum can be mustered.
A copy of the Alaska bible, “Sears Roebuck Company Catalogue,” can be classed as almost a necessity for, with the nearest Woolworth’s or hardware store 2,000 miles away, one always finds odds and ends that are needed. Of course, it will require from 2 to 3 months to receive an order (unless radioed) but usually it is perfectly possible to get along without it or make something else do the work, so the delay adds interest. In fact the monthly mail boat arrival is always a “big day,’ what with a fresh supply of reading material, mail orders, and fresh provisions arriving, so that, as one youngster so aptly expressed it, “Santa Claus comes to this part of Alaska once a month.”
Outdoor activities.—Throughout the year, except for the few months with heavy snow, walking is a favorite method of exercise. This requires, on the whole, a combination of mountain goat and duck, for there is practically no level land and what there is lies mostly under water. Nevertheless, on reasonable days, everyone gets out of the house and trudges over the island and is usually thankful that it is not raining or blowing. The No. 1 sight-seeing trip seems to be to climb Mt. Ballyhoo—a 1,600-foot peak on the Island of Amaknak—and write one’s name in the visitor’s book placed on the summit by the U.S.S. Saturn in 1915. Everyone usually makes the climb once, being well repaid by the view if he has selected a clear day to clamber up, but “once” is always “enough.” The great diversity of flowers during the summer months leads one to go on quite a few collecting expeditions, while in autumn large quantities of blue berries may be obtained from which resultant pies repay the labor of picking.
In the autumn some bird hunting is possible. The Islands are devoid of other game, even rabbits, but the Territorial Government has been considering stocking some of them with caribou and snowshoe rabbits. Emperor geese, which summer in the arctic and winter in the Aleutians, together with a few mallard ducks comprise the eatable migratory birds. There are other ducks by the thousands during the winter, such as king eider, eider, old squaw, etc., which are hunted by the Aleuts for food but they are much too fishy for a white man’s taste. In fact, after a month or so in the Islands, the geese and Mallards become fishy also, for their main source of food is shellfish obtained on the outer reefs during the day. Ptarmigan are occasionally obtained but are very scarce on the Island of Amaknak, and on the main island of Unalaska they are found mostly on the higher ridges in summer and seldom come down nearer sea level except during the heaviest snows in winter.
The bay supports a growing herring fishery industry during June and July hut sport fishing in this vicinity is nothing to make one wax enthusiastic. Within a few miles of the village of Unalaska small fountain trout—variety unknown—may he caught, while near the various river Souths quite large Dolly Varden trout are plentiful. But to a true trout fisherman the catching of these Dolly Varden has all the sport of catching carp in an eastern United States stream. Some king salmon are caught in the herring nets and occasionally may be caught trolling in the bay, hut one must troll deep and spend numerous hours in a boat to be successful. Chicken halibut are occasionally caught hut the codfish appears to be about the only sure-fire bet and they are mostly wormy because they are caught in shallow water. Large butter clams may be dug on the few sandy spits that exist in the bay.
Early in November ice forms on all the fresh-water lakes and remains throughout the winter. Skating is good for a month or two until snow falls. It appears feasible to flood any of these lakes or remove the snow and thus maintain at least one lake for skating throughout the winter months if the interest in the sport warrants such steps.
For about two months in the winter snow covers the ground. Although the high winds drift most of the snow into the various canyons and gullies to depths of 10 to 30 feet there is practically always enough left on the ridges to ski and toboggan. The hills and ridges are covered with a thick mattress of grass, lichens, etc., and even an inch or so of snow is sufficient.
The country being nothing but hills, one has only to put one’s skis on at the door, select the right-sized hill, and take off. With no trees or other hazards, and with the thick mattress of grass to act as a “feather bed” to cushion falls, anyone can soon learn to get around on skis and there are few injuries even from the worst spills. Toboggan slides are easy to level off and for those who don’t mind the long struggle uphill after an express ride down, tobogganing is popular. Two months of daily travel back and forth to the Radio Station on skis by the author during 1933-34 without any previous experience leads to the observation that skiing provides an ideal sport in the Aleutians.
The spring period, after the snow is gone and rain seems to be rather continuous, is probably the worst time of the year, for then one has no outdoor form of recreation except walking (which consists mostly of wading). This is the time when practically everyone is hard put to find anything to do, because even reading and the radio are beginning to pall. One then begins to look forward to something to break the monotony and to seeing new faces. The arrival of the first ship, usually the Coast Guard cutter, but in our case the U.S.S. Swallow, marks the beginning of a new year.
Health and Health Facilities
Even though the weather is disagreeable with wind, rain, and snow, the Islands are quite healthy. Strange as it may seem, it was actually found that respiratory ills fell off to about one-third of the normal California rate on one navy expedition to the Islands. In our case everyone had a “cold” upon arrival and no more from then until arrival in Seattle in June, 10 months later. It appears that part of this immunity was due to the fact that there was only one contact with the “outside” each month, that is by the mail steamer, and the “bug” must have died out, but to a layman’s mind, it also appears that part must have been due to the evenness of the temperature and humidity. During the 1933-34 season one epidemic of whooping cough made the rounds of the village of Unalaska, ostensibly brought in by the mail steamer, but not a case was contracted on the Island of Amaknak because especial care was taken to discourage contacts between personnel of the two villages, this being carried to the extent of canceling a Navy Day program at the Radio Station.
In the village of Unalaska the U. S. Bureau of Indian Affairs maintains a doctor, nurses, and a well-equipped hospital and their services are readily available to those requiring medical attention. During the winter months, when it is practically impossible to get off the Island, this gives a feeling of security to those who may have qualms as to possible sickness and worry about taking children to the Islands. No dentist is available, except during the summer months when the Coast Guard cutters always bring in a Public Health Service dentist. These dentists are required to give dental treatment to the natives but also generously do such work as is needed by white inhabitants. During the winter months at least one nurse at the hospital is well versed in elementary dental technic and will remove or give first aid to any ailing teeth.
Schools
A Territorial School is maintained in the village of Unalaska and white children may attend. In the past some children from Dutch Harbor have also attended this school, but it was far from satisfactory because of the fact that on many days it is dangerous to run small boats the mile or so across the bay and of course, during the year 1933-34, the prolonged work of hoisting out and in of the boat provided for the use of the Radio Station with radio men as a “crew” would have precluded much other necessary work.
An alternate method, of course, was to walk a half mile or mile around the island and ferry across the 200 yards of channel separating the two islands, but during the winter even this method was out of the question because of the depth of snow- Thus, most families on Dutch Harbor either taught their own children or arranged to have someone else teach them, usually taking in the textbooks required from the States from which they came. It was found, in our case, that 2 hours daily teaching per day kept our child abreast of the usual school curriculum, but any instruction in art, music, drawing, etc., was necessarily omitted.
Conclusion
Even though this article in general may paint a rather drab picture of what the Aleutian Islands have to offer, it should be stated that life there is by no means unpleasant and there are many compensations for the lack of some of the so-called necessities of life. Being somewhat isolated, one views many of the important events throughout the world with a detached point of view and there is a complete absence of the nervous strain usually present in modern living.